Digital Imaging

Lightroom to Photoshop Migration (& safely back) …

 

 

This is a continuation / addendum / update of Parts 1 & 2
in this series on ‘Photoshop vs Lightroom’:

 

I’d encourage you you to check out these 2 previous blogposts first
to put things in their proper context:

 

•  “Photoshop vs Lightroom?  Wrong Question!”

 

•  “Photoshop vs Lightroom?  Wrong Question! – – Part 2”

 

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Those that have worked with me know that I have a “love/hate” relationship with Lightroom  (mostly hate, because of it’s continued mis-use!).  

 

I am not fond of the program (an understatement!), and personally don’t use it (I use Bridge, mainly for its sheer simplicity).   

 

I just don’t need Lightroom’s organizational power – and for me, it’s an added hassle to an already complex post-processing world.

 

But, if Lightroom is an integral part of your post-processing workflow BECAUSE you need its robust organizational features, then let’s at least do this properly – read on, and I think you’ll agree …

 

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There are 2 possible “Procedures” for migrating your files between Lightroom and Photoshop (& safely back), BOTH with the same ultimate post-processing “Goals”:

 

 

Before you decide which “Procedure” below to use, ask yourself a question: do you want to PROPERLY work on your RAW file …

 

– in the Adobe Camera RAW Plug-in (ACR) – –  

OR

– in the Develop Module of Lightroom?

 

 

After answering that critical question, pick the appropriate “Procedure” below, and stick with it Procedural consistency is a major key to effective post-processing – ultimately, either “Procedure” gets the job done, especially if you use my suggested Photoshop Workflow Chart.

 

By the way, I use “Procedure #1 for the reasons stated in this post:  “Photoshop vs Lightroom?  Wrong Question! – – Part 2”

 

 

1)  Procedure #1 Summary (using ACR):

 

•  Use Lightroom as your “Digital Library” ONLY (See Part 1 of this series), then “Export …”

 

•  Using the “Goals” as guidance, adjust your RAW file in the Adobe Camera RAW plug-in ONLY

 

•  Open your file in Photoshop, then use your PS “mojo” to create your Master File (as a PSD)

 

•  Once saved in Photoshop (as a PSD), synch Folder in Lightroom

 

 

2)  Procedure #2 Summary (using the Develop Module):

 

•  Using the “Goals” as guidance, adjust your RAW file in the Develop Module of Lightroom ONLY

 

•  “Edit in …”, open in Photoshop, then use your PS “mojo” to create your Master File (as a PSD)

 

•  Once saved in Photoshop (as a PSD), synch Folder in Lightroom

 

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So, now on to the “how-to” part – – the specifics, step-by-step …. For pic details, click on the following images to Zoom in & Pan …

 

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First, a simple Housekeeping chore, regardless of the “Procedure” you decide to use:

 

I strongly recommend that you save your Master Files in the PSD File Format (vs TIFF), due to the way Lightroom works with Metadata. 

 

So, to properly view your PSD Master File thumbnails in Lightroom: you will need to open Photoshop first, and do the following (you only have to do this once):

 

•  Mac:  go to the “Photoshop” Menu ->  “Preferences” -> “File Handling” ->   set “Maximize PSD and PSD  File Compatibility” to “Always” -> “OK”

 

•  PC:  go to the “Edit” Menu ->  “Preferences” -> “File Handling” ->   set “Maximize PSD and PSD  File Compatibility” to “Always” -> “OK”

 

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•  Procedure 1 – Use Lightroom as your “Digital Library” ONLYadjust your RAW file in the Adobe Camera RAW plug-in ONLY, then open your file in Photoshop:

 

1) In the Library Module of Lightroom, click once on the desired RAW file to highlight it – then, click the Export” button on the bottom left of the LR Workspace – Export options vary, of course, but here are my suggested steps / settings.  See the highlighted areas in the pic below:

 

Click to Zoom in & Pan

A)  Under “Export Location”:  export the RAW file with a unique name to a new unique folder or subfolder (See chapter 11 in my book for suggested File Naming Conventions).

 

•  The idea is to isolate this RAW file (and ALL of its related files), to its own unique folder or subfolder – that way, it’s not lost in the general clutter of ALL of your image files.   

 

•  Remember, this is not just “any” file – you’re designating this image as a future Master File, which is only reserved for the “best of the best”.

 

B)  Under “File settings” -> “Image Format: ” – choose “Original”.

 

C)  Click on the button “Export” at the bottom right – this will copy the chosen RAW File to its own folder, with a unique file name AND matching folder name.

 

2)  Go to the new RAW file’s actual location on your computer through your Computer’s Operating System (NOT through Lightroom!)Note that a Lightroom “Catalog” link & the ACTUAL RAW file are 2 different things – you want the ACTUAL RAW file that you copied into its own unique folder in Step 1 above!

 

3)  Open the actual RAW file in Photoshop, which opens the ACR plug-in.  Then adjust in ACR using the Goals of RAW.

 

4)  Once all of your work in ACR is done, open in Photoshop by clicking on the “Open” button in ACR. Adjust in Photoshop, then save your Master File as a PSD to the new unique folder for this image (created in Step 1) – that is, in the same folder as the adjusted RAW file.

 

5)  To view the PSD Master File in Lightroom, sync the folder or subfolder that was created in Step 1:

Click to Zoom in & Pan

 

A)  Right-mouse-click on the folder, choose “Synchronize Folder …”

 

B)  Check the boxes shown in the Dialogue Box below, then click the “Synchonize” button.

Click to Zoom in & Pan

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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•  Procedure 2 – Adjust your RAW file in the Develop Module of Lightroom ONLY, then open your file in Photoshop:

 

First, some quick (but necessary) housekeeping: In Lightroom, go to “Preferences”  -> “External Editing”, and use the suggested settings shown below, regardless of what it says in the description to the right – you only have to do this once …

 

Click to Zoom in & Pan

 

1)  See Step 1 in “Procedure #1” above …

 

2)  Highlight the RAW file in the newly created folder from Step 1 above.  Adjust in the Develop Module (as you would in ACR), following the “Goals” of RAW – then right-mouse click on the image & choose “Edit In” -> “Edit in Photoshop CC 2020 …”  

 

3)  Your File Opens in Photoshop – Adjust in Photoshop, then save your Master File as a PSD to the new unique folder for this image (created in Step 1) – that is, in the same folder as the adjusted RAW file.

 

4)  See Step 5 in “Procedure #1” above …

 

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Was this information helpful?  Sign up for my free newsletter here …

 

By the way, all of this is part of my Photoshop book designed for photographers,  “Not just another Photoshop Book”,  available exclusively on Amazon:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNLS1Q2

 

Questions? Please contact me – also, feel free to comment, and tell all of your photography friends!

 

Thx again, and cheers,

 

John Watts  🙂

john@wattsdigital.com

 

Camera RAW 12.3 – RADICAL changes to the User Interface … with VIDEO

 

 

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Click once to embiggen & explore …

 

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Well, gollie … as Gomer Pyle used to say, “surprise, surprise, surprise! … and, shazam – was he ever the prognosticator!

 

As you can see from the video & screen grab above (or if you’ve updated your CC apps in the last few days), Adobe has made radical changes to it’s Camera RAW plug-ins’ User Interface (UI) – – The new look is completely different.

 

I know, I know – change can be frustrating, and at first, I was indeed skeptical  – but, this new UI is growing on me, and most definitely in a good way.  The more I use it,  the more I’m discovering that there are LOTS of little things that ultimately make this a more productive User Interface, compared to the old interface.

 

Also, if you’re one of my Photoshop students, here’s more good news: rest assured that these changes do NOT negate The Philosophy of Raw in any way – same functions & procedures, but with a different layout.  With a wee bit of time & practice on your part, you’ll be up and running again in no time.

 

By the way, in the spirit of K.I.S.S. (Keep It Super Simple), I’m NOT covering any of the “gee-whiz” tools & functions (Selective Color Adjustment, Radial Filter, etc), because more than likely you’ll never need them.  Besides, you can perform these functions in Photoshop with dramatically better results – – IF you follow the post-processing “Goals” of RAW to create a proper Master File.

 

 

Click once to embiggen & explore …

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New User Interface

 

•  The “Tools” have been moved from the top of the workspace to the right side.  If you follow the Philosophy of RAW, you’ll only need one “Tool” – the “Edit tool.  To me, the other tools are “gee-whiz” functions (discussed above).  Remember: K.I.S.S.!

 

•  There aren’t any “Tabs“,  as in the old interface.  They’ve been replaced with “Panels” – and different “Panels” are available, depending on the “Tool” that’s been selected.

 

•  Keep in mind that if you follow the Goals of RAW file enhancement, you will only need 1 “Tool” (the “Edit” tool), and 4 essential “Panels” (shown with arrows in the picture above).  You can pretty much ignore the other functions – – it’s “gee-whiz” stuff!

 

•  Here are 3 critical functions that have had their names changed:

 

1) “Tabs” are now “Panels” (IF the“Edit” tool is active)

 

2)  The HSL “Tab” is now the Color Mixer “Panel”

 

3)  The Lens Correction “Tab”  is now the Optics“Panel”

 

 Filmstrip:  simply click the icon shown (in the video or screen grab above) to hide / reveal the Filmstrip – OR, click & hold for options.  This is a handy feature if you’re processing multiple RAW files.  I definitely don’t use it all of the time, preferring instead to see my image a bit larger in the Workspace.

 

New Features

 

•  The Per-Panel Preview Icon (hereinafter referred to as the “Eyeball”):  if a “Panel” is edited, then the Eyeball is highlighted – if it’s grayed out, there are no edits in that “Panel”.  In the picture above, only 3 “Panels” have been edited.

 

•  The Eyeball shows / hides the edits of the chosen “Panel” (it’s like the “Preview” toggle in  the old RAW interface) – just click & hold to see “before”, and release to see “after”.

 

•  Toggle to Default Settings:  unlike the “Preview” toggle in the old interface, this shows before / after views of ALL corrections made to your RAW file – not just for an individual “Panel” this is a big improvement!

 

•  Color Mixer Panel options:  this is just like the old HSL “Tab”, but with a slick addition.  There’s now a drop-down menu called “Adjust”, which gives you the choice of either an “HSL” or “Color” mode.  You’ll get the same results, regardless of which mode you choose.  AND – if you make changes in one mode, those changes show up in the other mode.

 

If you choose “HSL” – – this works exactly like the old interface, with separate tabs for Hue, Saturation, & Luminance – with the eight colors in each tab.  Think of it this way – choose which tab you need first (H, S or L), then adjust your particular color(s) within that tab.

 

If you choose “Color” – – the HSL controls are conveniently grouped together in whatever Color you’ve chosen. This is really handy if you only need to adjust the HSL of a particular color.  Think of it this way – choose the Color first, then adjust the HSL for that Color only, all in one convenient place.

 

•  Zoom Tool:  this is definitely a major improvement from previous versions.  Like the old interface, the Zoom Tool is the default cursor that shows up in your image.  But now, if you click on your image, your image enlarges to 100% – – click again, and it returns to “Fit to View”.

 

Procedural

 

 Initial Splash Screen:  this only shows up the first time you start the program.  It’s a one time setup – it’s not permanent, and it’s easily changeable in the “Show / Hide Filmstrip Options” icon (shown in the video above, & screen grab below) .

 

 

•  Settings: – If necessary, click on the “gear” icon in the upper right to access.  But I’d recommend leaving everything at the default settings.  If you need to change your “Workflow Options” (also available in the Settings menu), simply click on the area  shown in the picture above.

 

 Toggle Full Screen Mode: to avoid distractions in the background of your screen, click on the double-sided arrow icon in the upper right to expand – or use the Speed Key “F”.

 

•  Click on the “Expand / Collapse Panel” icon (shown in the picture above) to open & close “Panels” – – If necessary, you can edit the “Panel” behavior in “Settings -> General”:  I use the default “Single Panel” mode, as only one “Panel” is open at a time, and the others close – WAY less clutter!

 

 “Before / After” Views:  press & hold for options / preferences, click for your preferred view – side-by-side, top / bottom, etc.  FYI, the Speed Key is Q”.  By the way, you can make adjustments to your file while in this view.

 

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Of course, this list is far from complete – but it’ll definitely get you up & working in no time – Remember, K.I.S.S.!

 

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Was this information helpful?  Sign up for my free newsletter here …

 

By the way, all of this is part of my Photoshop book designed for photographers,  “Not just another Photoshop Book”,  available exclusively on Amazon:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNLS1Q2

 

Questions? Please contact me – also,  feel free to comment and tell your photography friends!

 

Thx again, and cheers,

 

John Watts

john@wattsdigital.com

 

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06/22/20:  FYI – the online Meetup shown below is
directly related to the subject of this post …

And, hey – – it’s FREE … come join us!

 

Photoshop 101 – Class 3: RAW Fundamentals

Wednesday, Aug 5, 2020, 6:00 PM

Online event
,

11 Photoshop Enthusiasts Attending

This General Meetup will be held live & online via GoToMeeting.com, instead of at the Photo Arts building in San Diego’s Balboa Park. Specific details, and how to join once you RSVP, are here: https://www.wattsdigital.com/San_Diego_Meetups.html ________________ The Adobe Camera RAW Plug-in (included in Photoshop) is a powerful program that gives yo…

Check out this Meetup →

 

 

 

 

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