Photoshop CC: Soft-Proofing, plus RGB Color Spaces





From Patrick C in San Diego, CA:


  1. Should I be “soft proofing” my images before I send them to you? If so, do you provide any ICC profiles for your LightJet printer to view my images before uploading to you?


  1. Do you use ProPhoto RGB Color Space (or something else) as your working Color Space in Photoshop?




Interesting questions – some real “In the weeds” stuff – let me put on my “propeller-head” hat, and we’ll look at these one at a time …


Question #1– I do have the profiles available (just email me with the paper surface), but I generally don’t bother soft-proofing the vast majority of images – if you ever do try it, you’ll see that it’s generally not worth the bother – – read on, and you’ll see why:


From my book:


Soft Proofing is a previewing procedure that Photoshop uses to “see” the results of your Printer Profile. In other words, it allows you to view on your calibrated and profiled monitor what your image will theoretically look like when it is printed (using your Printer Profile).


When do I use it? VERY rarely – and only when working with bright electric colors, mainly the three primaries (Red Green and Blue), and never for correction in my Master File


I use it basically for “informational” purposes, knowing that my bright red may look a certain way on the screen, but won’t necessarily look that way on the print – mainly because of a printers’ “Color Gamut” (the range of colors that a printer can accurately represent) and “Tonal Compression”


.. and also, from my book:


Tonal Compression:  This is the inevitable reduction /degradation of the original scene from your eyes to the print. It’s pure physics – the range of colors reproduced shrinks throughout the process.


Let’s say, for example, that our eyes see 100 shades of red.  The camera, shot in RAW, may see 70 shades.  Then Photoshop may see 50 shades of red, and the printer may only print 30 shades of the original 100 shades available.


So, how can you minimize some of the effects of tonal compression in your digital capture?  Three things:


– Shoot in RAW

– Use a proper Color Working Space in Photoshop

– Have your Color Management “house” in order (more below)


Regarding soft-proofing:


On the vast majority of images, there is almost no change between what your images look like “soft-proofed” versus “not soft-proofed” – or if there’s a change, it’s usually not anything even remotely critical.


But, if you’re up to giving it a try, a word of caution – if you get caught up in the technical minutia, you may never be happy with the results, as soft-proofing is an imperfect science – I mean, who wants to be a slave to their computer?  You’ll drive yourself crazy!  Sometimes, less is more, or as a client recently put it: “Simplify and Demystify”.  Besides, wouldn’t you rather be out shooting?  🙂


So, bottom line– if you’re not sure of the result you see on your monitor, and you feel it’s necessary, run a small test print first – because for all of the different physical light properties involved (A monitor uses “emitted” light, a print uses “reflected” light, a 35mm slide is viewed with “transmitted” light, etc.), and after you’ve eliminated as many variables as you can (see PDF link below), there’s still nothing better than having the good ol’ human eyeball viewing a print under the proper lighting conditions for your final evaluations.


BTW, my  FREE PDF, “Three steps to successful Color Management”, is available here, and covers this subject and more, including explaining how to actually soft-proof, if you so desire.




Question #2


First of all, a Color Space is a mathematically structured “model” of colors. With proper Color Management practices, it allows for reproducible representations of color within a  particular printing  or viewing environment   You can choose your “working” Color Space in Photoshop by going to the “Edit”menu -> “Color Settings…”


ProPhoto RGB is a great Color Space – as is Adobe RGB 98. That being said, I use Adobe RGB 98 as my working Color Space – as do most of the of pros that I work with.  In the real world, even with a digital photo printer with a huge color gamut, such as the LightJet (which I use), there’s really not any advantage – again, see Tonal Compression & a printers’ Color Gamut discussed above.  Oh, and by the way, sRGB is a much smaller, consumer-based Color Space, and shouldn’t be used at all as a “working” Color Space.


To me, ProPhoto is “too large” of a Color Space.  Even though mathematically ProPhoto is larger, the differences between ProPhoto and Adobe RGB output aren’t really discernible to the naked eye.  In fact, almost 15% of the ProPhoto Color Space are “imaginary colors”, and not in the human visible spectrum!


As an aside, this is similar to the confusion on “File Resolution” – anything with a resolution higher than 300 ppi in your Master File is “wasting” pixels, as the human eye really cannot resolve anything with a higher PPI.


All of this being said, if you choose to save your Master File in ProPhoto RGB, go for it – because perhaps in the future there may be a use for all of that data.   In the meantime (admittedly a bit out of long habit, but with consistently excellent results), I’ll stick with the tried-and-true workhorse for my working Color Space, used by professionals everywhere for a reason – Adobe RGB 98.


BTW, my newest Photoshop book “Not just another Photoshop Book: Photoshop Instruction Designed for Photographers, is now available exclusively on Amazon – both paperback and Kindle – and the Kindle version is FREE if you are subscribed to Kindle Unlimited.


Questions?  Comments?  I’d love to hear from you …


Thx again, and cheers,


John  🙂


Photoshop: What is a Master File, and why do I need one?



From Matthew S in San Diego, CA:  

“Once you capture an image in RAW (or a 16-bit scan), what is the best way to save the image for printing purposes? Or should I convert the image to another format? I typically convert everything to a max
quality JPG.  Supposedly any “lossy” degradation will be unnoticed to the eye, or so I’ve been told. But, is this the best way? I’d love to have this clarified.”  




Before I can fully answer your question, Matt, you might want to review this post on my blog –  mostly a wee bit technical, but well worth the time:


Why shoot in 16-bit (RAW), rather than 8 bit (JPG)?


Once you read through it, you’ll see why saving your important final images in JPG is not such a good idea, particularly from a technical standpoint …


So, what to do?  Let me introduce you instead to the concept of a Master File – the best way to prep your important images for a multitude of uses, including printing.


If a picture is truly worth a thousand words, then the chart  above is an overall “visual” representation of a proper Photoshop workflow for your important images – notice that everything is centered around the Master File (as an aside, you can download a free step-by-step “linear” workflow here).


Creating a Master File is NOT for every image: it’s for those images that you want to spend time with, doing all that’s necessary to make your image “pretty”.


Here’s where you pour your artistic “blood, sweat and tears” into your image (for awesome results, try using the methods shown in my  book,  “Not Just Another Photoshop Book”, available exclusively on Amazon (Kindle, too!) …


What is a “Master File”? It’s a 16-Bit, un-flattened, un-sharpened, un-cropped, un-resized file, designated as such in its file name, and saved as a TIFF or PSD.


Why create a Master File?


•  It’s Multi-purpose: Use it to create separate files for a specific print size or printer, for the Web, for magazine output, etc. and you’ll stay consistent between those files.


•  It’s easily correctable: for color, contrast, cropping, enhancements, etc. non-destructively (loss of digital information).


•  Sharpening is applied according to your print size: Let’s say that your Master File is created from a RAW file – It might be around 13″x20” at 300 ppi – If you sharpen for this size and reduce the file to prep for a 4×6 print, it will be over-sharpened.


So, bottom line, Matt: I’d strongly suggest you NOT save your final important images as a JPG, and consider the concept of a Master File for your important images, saved instead as a TIFF or PSD – and thanks for the great question!




John 🙂


PS – By the way: if you want a genuine, bonafide, certified “pro” (me!) to create a Master File for your best images (AND make it a “teachable moment”), that is a service I provide – more here:



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